How to Win at Mount Rinjani!

Mount Rinjani Trekking 

Reaching the summit of Mount Rinjani is the most challenging thing I've ever done. It's also without doubt one of the most amazing experiences I've ever had. From the "Tomb Raider" feel of the rainforest, to the breathtaking views of lake Segara Anak and Mount Barujari (pictured above), trekking in Gunung Rinjani National Park is a must-do adventure for anyone travelling to Indonesia. I camped above the clouds, looking into the star-studded cosmos that came alive at night. I rested my weary muscles in geothermal springs, heated by the active volcano deep underground. And I hiked through the night, leaving my warm sleeping-bag and sheltering tent to climb, step-by-step, one of Indonesia's highest peaks. In this blogpost I'll share with you my experience, and advise you how best to plan a Mount Rinjani trek. ⛰🏅

Where is Mount Rinjani?

Mount or "Gunung" Rinjani is on the Indonesian island of Lombok. Many people have heard of the tourist destination of Bali, but not many have heard of its less busy neighbour. Mount Rinjani is situated in the north of the island, and holds spiritual significance to many people living on the Lombok. It takes around 90 minutes to reach Lombok from Bali using a speed-boat, and between 30-40 minutes if you fly from Denpasar to Lombok Praya airport. I went by speedboat (going from Bali to Gili Air) then took a car to the mountain village of Senaru, but I'll cover this later.

 

Mount Rinjani Fun Facts

• At 12,224ft / 3726m, Mount Rinjani is Indonesia's second highest volcano
• It's the site of the historic Samalas eruption of 1257, one of the biggest eruptions ever!
• It's part of a UNESCO designated Geopark
• It's considered a holy mountain by many people in Lombok and Bali (especially Hindus)
• It featured in the 2015 romantic comedy "Romeo & Rinjani" 💗

The Mount Rinjani Summit Trek

There are a few things you should know before signing-up for a Rinjani summit trek. Firstly, it's no "walk in the park". Well, that's not entirely true, you will be hiking in Gunung Rinjani National Park, a UNESCO Geopark that covers over 41,000 hectares! What I mean is it's not easy - it requires endurance and determination... But don't let this fact put you off - with the right preparation & mindset you will be able to succeed 😊 The first thing you will need to decide is what Rinjani trekking package you want to do. This will largely depend on how much time you wish to spend hiking - whether you just want to reach the summit and go back to the beach, or whether you want to spend more time immersing yourself in "Jurassic Park".

Mount Rinjani Packages

There are a few different options for climbing Mount Rinjani, which I will summarise below. I did lots of research before booking my trek, which paid-off in the long run. I've revised this blogpost (which I originally published on a different platform), as certain things have changed since I climbed the mountain. But rest-assured I will provide up-to-date information based on my correspondence with friends I made on the island, and the official national park website. The main thing that's on everyone's mind right now is probably COVID-19 (aka Corona Virus). I will dedicate a section at the end of this guide to the current advice on Mount Rinjani COVID-19 restrictions.

View from Sembalun Crater Rim Campsite

2 day / 1 night Mount Rinjani Summit Package

From the people I spoke to this is probably the most "popular" Rinjani package, the reason being, it's the shortest! But don't be fooled - this option involves a lot of vertical metres on a short amount of time. If you choose this option you'll be leaving from Sembalun Village on East Lombok, and finishing in the same place. 

• Day 1: Sembalun Village > Plawangan Sembalun (crater rim). Approximately 7 hours of trekking with 1700m of elevation gain. Day one will see you trekking from Sembalun Village (970m above sea level) to Plawangan Sembalun (2670m above sea level). The first part of the day will be spent crossing fields on relatively flat ground. You will have rest breaks along the way (at "Pos 1" - Pemantuan, "Pos-2" - Tengengean & "Pos-3" - Pada Balong). It's after Pos-3, where many groups stop for lunch, that the climbing gets more serious! You'll end the day at the amazing ridge campsite of Sembalun Crater Rim (Plawangan Sembalun), where you will have dinner & watch the sunset.

• Day 2: Plawangan Sembalun > Summit > Sembalun Village. Approximately 10 hours of trekking with just over 1000m of ascent and 2700m descent. You will be woken up from a beautiful sleep in a warm sleeping bag at 2am in the morning - that's right, 2 am! After a warm drink and snack you will start the slow arduous climb to the summit of Mount Rinjani. Despite being in the tropics, it will most likely be very cold. Having reached the summit you will return to the campsite at Sembalun Crater Rim, where you will have breakfast. After breakfast the porters will pack up the tents, and you will walk off the mountain, back to Sembalun. By the time you get there you will be an exhausted dusty mess! 

3 day / 2 night Mount Rinjani Summit Package

If you have slightly longer to enjoy the wonders of Gunung Rinjani National Park, the 3 day summit package is a great option. The main difference between the 2 and 3 day packages is that with this one you get to drop-down into the volcanic crater and visit lake Segara Anak & the thermal springs. This is the route I took during my Rinjani adventure, and I am so glad I chose the option. You can do this trek in two directions:

Start in Senaru Village, finish in Sembalun village, summiting on the morning of day 3

or

Start in Sembalun Village, finish in Senaru village, summiting on the morning of day 2

* I did the first of these options, and in retrospect, think it is the better option. 

• Day 1: Senaru Village > Plawangan Senaru (crater rim). Approximately 7 hours walking, 2040m elevation gain. Start the trek from the beautiful mountain village of Senaru (600m above sea level) and finish on Senaru Crater Rim, 2640m elevation. The first part of the trek involves trekking through the rainforest, stopping for much needed rest-breaks and lunch along the way. The second part of the day (afternoon) involves hiking up to the crater rim following a ridgeline trail. Although this is a hard day's trekking with a lot of steep walking, the views from the campsite are definitely worth it. Senaru Crater Rim is arguably the best photo-opportunity you will have to capture the magnificence of Mount Rinjani and the epic crater lake, Segara Anak.

• Day 2: Senaru Crater Rim > Lake Segara Anak > Sembalun Crater Rim. Approximately 7 hours hiking, 600m descent, 870m ascent. Start the morning with a steep (and slightly treacherous) descent down the side of the crater rim to the lake, Segara Anak. Go to the hot springs or relax by the lake whilst the porters prepare lunch. After a blissful soak in the hot-springs and leasurely lunch, commence the climb up the other side of the crater rim to the basecamp on Plawangan Sembalun.

• Day 3: Sembalun Crater Rim > Summit > Sembalun Village. Roughly 10 hours of trekking with 1000m of ascent and 2700m descent. By the time you reach the final day of the 3 day Rinjani hike you will have built-up some stamina and fitness (at least this is what I felt). As with the final day of the 2-day hike, you get up early (around 2am) and commence the slow climb to the summit of Mount Rinjani (3726m / 12,224 ft). Having arrived in time to watch the sun rise over Lombok there will be plenty of time for selfies and hugs. You will then start the walk down the mountain to Sembalun, stoping for food and water breaks along the way.

I personally feel like this route is the best way to experience Gunung Rinjani National Park. Although tough, it allows you to experience many different things, and visiting the lake and thermal springs are a must if you have time. Doing the 3 day trek in reverse, starting in Sembalun and finishing in Senaru, would in my opinion be harder.

4 day / 3 night Mount Rinjani Summit Package

This is essentially the same as the 3 day / 2 night trek, but done at a slower pace and spending a night at the lake. If you have time to spare, are older, or not in the best shape, this might be a great option for you.

How to choose a Mount Rinjani Trekking Company

I did lots of research before embarking on my Rinjani adventure as it was my first proper mountain climb and I was very apprehensive / scared. I read lots of reviews on Tripadvisor and blogs, but in the end I took the recommendation of my dive instructor at Manta Dive on Gili Air. There are three factors you need to consider when deciding which trekking operator to choose for you Mount Rinjani Summit Trek:

1. Budget. The price of climbing Mount Rinjani can vary depending on where you book. I have two pieces of advice. Firstly, don't book through Viator or similar online travel agents - they are way more expensive and take money away from the locals. The second is don't book the cheapest package you can find (I will tell you why in the "horror stories" section of this guide). I understand that if you are a backpacker on a tight budget you may go for the cheapest option possible (to save money for partying), but if this is not you, it's worth spending the extra few dollars to have an amazing trek free from stress & with good tents and sleeping bags.
2. Environmental Responsibility. If you are a conscientious traveller it is important to consider the impact you are having on the environment & country you visit. I always book with responsible operators who care about the environment & local community.
3. Equipment, Food & Group Size. If you are travelling light you will most likely need to borrow some equipment. From what I witnessed and heard from others, the budget Rinjani treks sold at bars and backpackers on the Gili Islands and Sengiggi use broken tents and dirty unhygienic sleeping bags. They will also not have equipment you can borrow. The same goes for food - from speaking to people who booked cheap rinjani treks at travel agent shops I heard there was not enough food and water, and it did not provide enough energy (cheap minute noodles etc).

After multiple recommendations from people I met on Gili Air including my amazing instructor at Manta Dive, I booked my 3-day / 2 night Rinjani Summit Trek with Rinjani Dawn Adventures. It was the right choice - they were awesome people and made my first mountain experience something I will never forget.

Travelling from The Gili Islands to Senaru

I decided to travel to Senaru the day before my trek, so I could visit the famous rice fields and waterfalls that are located there. Travel from Bangsal Harbour to Senaru was included in the price of my package, which was a big relief as a taxi would have cost around $50. It is possible to get a bus to Senaru, but they don't leave often and take many hours. If you have a scooter (which can be hired for $8-10 per day) it is possible to ride to Senaru via Tanjung. I was met off the Gili Air public boat by RDA's smiling driver, Lukman, who drove me the 1.5 hours to Senaru. As it was just me in the car I was able to stop at a beach on the way, to stretch my legs and have a drink. It is possible to go directly to Senaru on the day of the trek, but in this case it's best to be located on the mainland. 

Where to stay in Senaru before a Mount Rinjani trek

Compared to the Gilis, Sengiggi and South Lombok, Senaru does not have a wide-range of accommodation to choose from. Thankfully Rinjani Dawn Adventures had advised me of the best options available. They are:

High End: Rinjani Lodge

Mid-Range: Rinjani Lighthouse & Pondok Senaru
Budget: Anak Rinjani & Pondok Guru Bakti

In the end I opted for the cheap and cheerful Anak Rinjani, which was behind Rinjani Dawn Adventures' office. I was comfortable enough for one night, with clean sheets, a fan, and hot water. 

What I packed for my 3 day / 2 night Mount Rinjani trek

In case you don't know what you need to bring for Rinjani trekking, I will list what got me through my three day summit hike. Before I do that I need to explain that when you climb Gunung Rinjani you will have a local guide, and also porters who carry the tents and food. These amazing people will cook delicious meals and support you during your hike. All you're expected to carry is a day-pack with your own personal stuff, and one litre of fresh water, which can be replaced at any time. 

Mount Rinjani Packing List

• Backpack: Medium sized - 30-40 litre capacity should be large enough, but if you have lots of camera gear you might need something bigger.
• Trainers or Hiking Boots: I took hiking boots, but I reckon I could have managed fine in trainers. The main thing is bring something with good grip, as there are some steep sections where you don't want to fall. 
• Trekking Clothes: You are going to be sweating, a lot! But at night it gets really cold, so you need some warm thermal layers to keep you snug. The company I went with loaned me a jacket, hat and gloves free of charge, but it's worth bringing your own warm base-layers. 
• Swimming Stuff: If doing a 3 or 4 day trek you will get to go swimming in the lake, and bathe in the thermal springs.
• Dust Mask: This is mandatory under the newly established COVID-19 trekking regulations, but it is also useful for coming down from the summit. Due to the volcanic earth it can get quite dusty, so a dust mask is a good idea. Rinjani Dawn did give me an awesome buff before we set-off, which can be used as a scarf, hat or mask.
• First Aid Kit: I carry a small first aid kit on all my travels. In it I keep plasters, Betadine, and a few other bits and pieces. Our guide did have a first aid kit with him, but I'd recommend taking your own, especially if you get blisters or aches and pains.
• Wash Bag / Toiletries: Basic essentials - but maybe include some wet-wipes as water is limited apart from at the lake.
• Insect Repellent
• Cash: I found out from friends on Gili Air that it's customary to tip the porters and guides at the end of the trek. There is no set amount, but as they had been super-kind and helped me at every step on my journey I decided I could afford $30 Singapore Dollar to be shared between them. But some of the other trekkers just gave $10 (around 100,000 IDR).

What I borrowed from my trekking organiser

• Warm jacket
• Warm hat & gloves
• Poncho (incase it rained, thankfully I didn't need this)
• Trekking poles (I was reluctant to take these, but during our pre-trek briefing the manager of RDA said they are good. I was so glad I took his advice - the poles are great for going up, and just as importantly, coming down steep parts of the trail. 
• Sleeping bag liner. Rinjani Dawn Adventures loaned me a really nice sleeping bag liner that felt so good at the end of a hard day (although I would have probably slept in a bush I was so tired!). My guide told me they were the only company to offer fresh liners - another reason to go with them.
• Head torch

Camping on Mount Rinjani - What to Expect

The view from Sembalun Crater Rim, Mount Rinjani

Depending on how fit the people in your group are, you will finish hiking around 5pm. Thankfully the group I went with was small (6 people) and everyone was fit & healthy! When you reach the camping area (usually the crater rim) the porters and guides will set up camp and start cooking dinner. I was able to rest my weary legs whilst sipping hot-chocolate & looking at the amazing scenery. A good piece of advice is to get changed as soon as you arrive at the campsite. Take-off your sweaty clothes, have a quick wet-wipe wash, and put on some warm layers. Due to the altitude it is not as warm as at sea-level, and when the sun comes down it gets really cold! 

Dinner was amazing - we had a delicious curry and fried banana for dessert. As I was the only vegetarian on the trip the porters made me vegetarian options throughout - instead of meat I had Jackfruit curry, which was seriously tasty! After dinner we watched the sunset over the island and sat and talked for a while. As we were above the cloudline the sky came alive at night - I never saw so many stars! We didn't stay up too late though, as we were all exhausted from the day's trekking! I crawled on top of a surprisingly thick & comfortable mattress, and fell asleep instantly!

Lake Segara Anak & Rinjani Thermal Springs

The walk down from Senaru Crater Rim to Segara Anak lake was steep to begin with, so you have to take it slow. Thankfully our guide "Hero" was very attentive, and helped us down the steeper sections. The lake is stunning, and you feel very close to the active volcano that is growing out of its depths. Whilst the porters made lunch we went a couple hundred metres down to the thermal springs. Having had a hard first day the warm water was very welcome Some parts were hotter than others, but the mineral waters definitely helped my aching limbs recover from the challenge of day 1! After lunch we rested for an hour or so, then climbed-up the other side of the crater rim, to Plawangan Sembalun. Having gone into "relax-mode" at the thermal springs, I found going up again quite hard (it's very steep in some parts). But it was good training for the summit the following day. 

Climbing to the Summit of Mount Rinjani 12,224ft / 3726m

Mount Rinjani is Indonesia's second highest volcano. For this reason it's popular with Indonesian and international hikers. 

Rinjani Summit Push (Day 3)

I was woken up at 2am on the third day of my hike. After a warm cup of coffee and energy bar we commenced our climb to the summit. The first hour was difficult - imagine walking up a very steep sand dune. The trekking poles came in very useful here, but it was still hard not to cry at the slow progress and difficulty of moving forward. One step at a time - that's the only way. After an hour the path flattened out and followed the ridge line. You definitely need a torch for this section as there are cliffs to the right. Then the burn starts again - a slow difficult march to a summit that seems to never appear. We took regular breaks and I found myself counting my steps -1,2,3,4,5,6.... I paused every 20 steps before starting again. Our group managed to stay together, and we reached the summit at 5am, before the sun had come up. Thankfully our guide had brought a thermos for the climb and lots of energy bars. It was cold on the summit whilst we waited for the sun to come up, so we huddled together and drank hot coffee. When the sun came up everything was worth it - all the tears & lactic acid, 

View from Mount Rinjani Summit - The "Pyramid" in the sky is Rinjani's shadow

After the sun came up. Old volcano you can see on Mount Rinjani summit

Coming down from the summit - you can see the rocky terrain that is quite dusty

Reflections on Climbing Mount Rinjani

Climbing Mount Rinjani was a life-changing experience - it represented overcoming a significant personal challenge - to climb a big mountain before my 30th birthday. I couldn't have done this alone, and am eternally grateful to the awesome team from Rinjani Dawn Adventures who guided me every step of the way (my guide "Hero" was a complete sweetheart). Why would I recommend climbing Mount Rinjani to friends? Firstly it's stunningly beautiful - the scenery is mind-blowing. Secondly it's challenging, which makes it feel like a hard-earned right-of-passage. Thirdly, you meet people from around the world who become your friends - we laughed a lot as we struggled uphill for three days.

How to Win at Mount Rinjani

1. Trekking Companies: Go with a reputable trekking company (do your own research, but I can highly recommend Rinjani Dawn Adventures).
2. Equipment: Take a comfy backpack & decent trekking shoes - use ones with good grip.
3. Clothing: Take warm clothes. This is no joke - it was freezing on the summit!! Thankfully I could borrow a jacket from Rinjani Dawn Adventures free of charge, but some personal warm layers are necessary for night time & the summit push.
4. Hydration: Stay hydrated - there is plenty of water, but you need to remember to drink regularly. A camelback may be the best as it means you don't have to be opening your backpack every time you want to drink.
5. Preparation / Fitness. I probably could have been in better shape, but I also wasn't too unfit - I had been planning this trip for a while, so had been going to the gym regularly. I would recommend doing lots of hill walking (or steps if you live in a city) and avoid using elevators / lifts if you live in an apartment. I didn't know this until after, but I could have got training advice from the RDA website & YouTube channel.
6. Attitude! Keep smiling, and remind yourself that if you take it one step at a time, you will eventually reach the summit! You can do it!!

Tipping Porters & Guides on Mount Rinjani

It's customary to tip your porters and guides at the end of the trip. You don't have to, but when you experience what they've done for you over the 2/3 days, I'm sure you'll want to show them some 💗. I advise getting together with other members of your group, and deciding how much you wish to give. We agreed on $15 per person, but I decided to give a bit more, as our guide "Hero" had helped me a lot. Once you've pooled your money you can give it to your guide, who will distribute it fairly to the porters.

Summary of my Mount Rinjani Trekking Adventure

As I wrote in the introduction, climbing Mount Rinjani is one of the most life-changing experiences I've ever had. It required me to overcome self-imposed limitations, and dig deeper than I ever had before. I could hardly walk for days after the trek, but I felt amazing, like I had grown as a person. Climbing Rinjani might not be for everyone - it's no easy ride. But if you love mountains and nature and making new friends, you have to put this epic adventure on your bucket list. If you don't think you're ready for a big mountain just yet, there are other cool adventures I did on Lombok that I will post about in the coming weeks. These include learning how to dive on the Gili Islands, hiking Pergasingan Hill, and surfing on Lombok's beautiful South coast. 

Rinjani Horror Stories

I met other groups whilst on the trek, and spoke to some young backpackers when I was in Kuta later in my trip. Sadly their Rinjani experiences were not as amazing as mine. One said they slept in a tent that had a broken zip, so the cold wind came in at night causing a flapping noise that kept her up all night. Another said they did not have enough to eat, and water was limited to 1 litre per day. For this and environmental reasons (unlicensed operators are notorious for leaving rubbish on the mountain) I'd recommend booking with an approved operator. For the sake of an extra $50 or so dollars, it's the difference between a trek of a lifetime or an uncomfortable experience that potentially puts you at risk.

Mount Rinjani COVID-19 Update

The following information is second hand, but (hopefully) up-to-date. It's taken from Rinjani Dawn Adventures website, which has up-to-date information about the Mount Rinjani National Park.

• Hikers need a valid letter stating that they are free from COVID 19 (rapid test or PCR accepted).
• Hikers need to fill out the Travel History form (applicable in Lombok).
• Hikers need to use a face mask / face shield and hand gloves
• Hikers need to bring a hand sanitiser
• Hikers need to present a certificate showing they are free from the symptoms of COVID-19, such as high fever, shortness of breath, coughing and colds.
• Hikers need to carry and use personal equipment, especially cutlery / eating utensils, as well as pillow and sleeping bag.
• There will be a maximum number of 6 trekkers per group